I'm being flooded with questions about the 2800 shutdown fault code for Air Cooled Generac generators... This code is VERY simple to fix. The new Generac WiFi products that are shipping come standard with the Aux Shutdown kits installed. The 15kW are larger units have 2 switches, while 14kW and lower use just 1 switch. The switches are located one on the very back of the unit just below the roof line near the electrical connections and the other is located INSIDE the generator on the black firewall panel in the upper right corner. These MUST BOTH be on for the unit to run. If either or both are turned off, the unit will show that alarm and not run. If either switch is turned off during the unit actually running, it will shut down. These are for emergency personnel in case there is a problem where the unit must be safely and quickly shutdown. There is a section in the owner's manual that will explain all about them as well.Because the 1505 error code alarm on Generac is such a popular question I wanted to explain what this means and why it happens...
1. The battery is bad, dead, not connected properly, or has loose or dirty terminals.![Fault Fault](/uploads/1/2/6/3/126365220/281882915.jpg)
2. The starter contactor has a problem or loose connection. This is located near the controller and is a small black colored relay with 4 wires. It converts the controller's start signal into a higher current signal that turns the starter's solenoid on.
3. The starter motor has a problem, bad connection or the small 16 wire which tells the solenoid to turn on is loose or disconnected.
4. The ignition coils have a problem. This could be that they are bad, have contacted the flywheel, etc. The 18 wire sends the RPM signal to the Evolution from the ignition coils.
5. The engine (however unlikely) is internally damaged and will not physically move (seized up)
During troubleshooting, always start with the battery. It's the most likely cause and should be load tested, not just checked for voltage. A bad battery will very often show normal battery voltage but when a load is applied will drop to zero, or well below the normal threshold for a battery. If the battery checks out, see other causes above and move on from there checking cables and connections.
In Generac's Online Product Support section you can find the specifications, product manuals, frequently asked questions, how-to videos, and more for your product. Online Product Support 24/7/365 CUSTOMER SUPPORT United States & Canada: 888-GENERAC (888-436-3722) International: 1-262-544-4811. Generac customer service says I have to call a dealer. The unit is useless as is Generac service. DO NOT BUY A GENERAC UNIT and especially not the Synergy unit. Original review: Dec. 28, 2018 Bought the 16 kW home standby generator in 2004 because we have a lot of power outages in living rural. Generator ran okay for several years. RPM Sense Loss, Code 1501/1505/1511/1515 – If the unit was running and shuts down, attempting to restart, clear the alarm by pressing the ENTER button twice, then press AUTO. Next, remove some of the loads. Try putting it back in AUTO and then restart. At the controller, set the generator to OFF. Remove the 7.5A fuse from the controller. To turn the generator back ON: Install 7.5A fuse in controller. Confirm the generator MLCB (generator disconnect) is OFF (OPEN). At the controller, set the generator to AUTO mode. Generator will start and run. Allow generator to run and warm up for a few minutes. The only way to solve this Fault Code problem is to take the generator to a qualified Onan dealer or repair shop. Alternative sources for this code may be a lack of fuel or a clogged filter problem. Then you just add more fuel or replace/clean the filter.
The error code 1505 is a RPM loss alarm and will trigger a shutdown anytime it occurs and will not self clear. It's a CRANKING alarm, which means that the alarm occurred during a crank cycle, NOT while the unit was actually running. This is usually caused by a couple of simple things. 1. The battery is bad, dead, not connected properly, or has loose or dirty terminals.
![Fault Fault](/uploads/1/2/6/3/126365220/281882915.jpg)
2. The starter contactor has a problem or loose connection. This is located near the controller and is a small black colored relay with 4 wires. It converts the controller's start signal into a higher current signal that turns the starter's solenoid on.
3. The starter motor has a problem, bad connection or the small 16 wire which tells the solenoid to turn on is loose or disconnected.
4. The ignition coils have a problem. This could be that they are bad, have contacted the flywheel, etc. The 18 wire sends the RPM signal to the Evolution from the ignition coils.
5. The engine (however unlikely) is internally damaged and will not physically move (seized up)
During troubleshooting, always start with the battery. It's the most likely cause and should be load tested, not just checked for voltage. A bad battery will very often show normal battery voltage but when a load is applied will drop to zero, or well below the normal threshold for a battery. If the battery checks out, see other causes above and move on from there checking cables and connections.